International Lhotse (8,516m.) Expedition - 45 Days
Mount Lhotse (8516) was climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956. Its lower peak, mount Lhotse Shar 8383m, sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak, Mount Lhotse , which means "South peak" is a part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest. The primary route on mount Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. But by 1955, despite the activity on Mount Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world.
The first attempt on Mount Lhotse was by an international team in 1955. One member of the party was Erwin Schneider; during this expedition, he began work on the first of the series of high-quality "Schneider maps of the Everest region". The same Swiss party that made the second ascent of Everest in 1956 made the first ascent of Mount Lhotse from a camp just below the South Col.
Mount Lhotse Shar was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. Japanese, South Koreans, and Germans attempted from various routes on its main peak. Poles and Italians also climbed the summit before the summit was reached again by German expeditions in 1977.
The Lhotse Face/Route
The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m (3,700ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.
The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogoslavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. In 1985,1987 and 1989 three Polish expedition tried to climb the wall. The highest point they reach was 8300 meters. During the last expedition, Jerzy Kukuczka-the second person who climbed all 8000 meter peaks died during the attempt. Another expedition in 1989 lead by Reinhold Messner failed due to problems between members.
In 1990 Tomo Cesen said that he climbed the wall via Yugoslavian route. The climb caused much controversy because many climbers didn't believe that the wall, which was unclimbed by so many good climbers, was by climbed by single person. He later changed his mind claiming that he didn't reach the top but the summit ridge. However, public opinion is that he reached only about 7000 meters.
The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen's climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.
When To Climb
As for all the Himalayan peaks there are two main seasons. Pre-monsoon season runs from April through May. Post monsoon season runs from late September through October.
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Prepared Expedition
Day 03: Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 04: Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding -camp or Lodge
Day 05: Phakding - Namche - Camp or Lodge
Day 06: Rest day Namche Bazaar Camp - Lodge
Day 07: Namche - Thyangboche, Camp or lodge
Day 08: Thyanboche - Pheriche, camp or Lodge
Day 09: Pheriche - Lobuche, camp or Lodge
Day 10: Lobuche -Base Camp, Preparation, camp
Day 11-38 CLIMBING PERIOD OF MT. LHOTSE . 8516m.
Day 39: Base Camp Preparation, camp or Lodge
Day 40: Base camp - Pheriche Camp/Lodge
Day 41: Periche - Namche - lodge
Day 42: Namche - Lukla - lodge
Day 43: Lukla - Kathmandu fly
Day 44: Kathmandu
Day 45: Final departure
- 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (hotel 3 star).
- Permit fee of Lhotse 8516m Expedition
- Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Lhotse
- Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
- Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
- Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
- Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
- 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
- Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
- Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
- Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
- Satellite phone (Pay calls)
- Fare Well dinner
Cost does not include:
- PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
- Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
- Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
- Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
- Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
- Oxygen & Mask -regulator
- Personal expenses
- Bar Bills & beverage
- Garbage Deposit USD 3000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu
"Notice Please read carefully this terms and conditions"
If due to really true emergency you are unable to come or continue in the trek or rafting you have chosen to join, there will be some cancellation charges. That what constitutes a true emergency case is interpreted at Creative Adventure Nepal Pvt. Ltd discretion. Please be aware of these conditions such as Dysentery, Giardia diarrhea are commonplaces in East and South Asia and such are not classified as emergencies.
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Cancellation: In the event of cancellation by the travel 7 days prior to departure 50% of the total amount paid will not be refundable. Passed the 7th day there will be no refund. If we have not received a balance due at the 29th day preceding a departure, we can cancel the booking. If we are in the obligation to cancel a trip for any reason, the participants will be completely refunded without any possibility of further indemnity. Cancellation of a trip made by the client does not entitle s/him to a refund of any kind. The date of cancellation is the date on which Creative Adventure Nepal Pvt. Ltd receives a written notice of cancellation by the travel that who has made the booking. If any transfer to an alternative departure date, will charge US15 or Euro 10 per person.
Creative Adventure Nepal Pvt. Ltd undertakes to provide you with the trip as outlined in your itinerary. However, as we cannot pre-determine weather conditions, political and other factors beyond our control, and bearing in minds your safety and enjoyment, we reserve the right to adjust the trip itinerary as required. The raft/trek leader in consultation with the staff and trip participants will decide on these adjustments. The raft/trek leader's decision will be final.
I have read all thoroughly and fully understood the information of trip. The itinerary and all other written material issued by Creative Adventure Nepal Pvt. Ltd for the trip I have applied to join and I am competent and willing to cope with the situations, circumstances and conditions made clear in the printed material. I agree and recognize that the realities made clear in the written information reflect the intrinsic characteristics of adventure travel and not least the matters of flexibility. Adaptability, reasonableness, practical personal contribution to lifestyle en-route and the fact that not all situations, circumstances and conditions subsequently encountered are identical to those pre-existing and prevailing at the time of booking.
I also recognize that I am undertaking a journey that contains a significant element of personal risk, and that risk does sometime become a reality. I acknowledge the relative remoteness, the rough traveling and weather conditions, the limited and relatively primitive medical and other services available, as well as the greater potential dangers compared with my usual daily life at back home, or conventional holiday travel. Not only do I accept the realities. I have chosen to seek them out. I recognize Creative Adventure Nepal Pvt. Ltd Nepal's responsibility to me and I accept these authority and decision of Creative Adventure Nepal Pvt. Ltd and its representatives in respect to the journey that I have applied to Join with them.
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